Wildfire gets a near-criminal record in Sweden.

MS. WILDFIRE GOES TO SCANDINAVIA

Stockholm on Two Wheels: Expressways, Excellent Salads & One Near-Criminal Brompton

Three days, two countries' worth of carbs, and one police escort we did not plan for.

Day One ~ Arlanda to Sigtuna

📍 Arlanda Airport → Sigtuna🚴 ~22 km⛰️ Gloriously flat☀️ Vibe: Chef's kiss

Landed at Arlanda. Unfolded Ms. Wildfire. Found the cycle path on the third attempt. Sweden, we are already getting along.

The fact that a cycle path begins right from the airport is one of those small things that makes you want to write a thank-you letter to an entire country. I wish every airport did this: land, click the bike together, and off you go. No taxi queue, no lugging bags onto trains. Just open road.

The cycle path that had me fall in love with Sweden before I even left the airport.

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A quick tip on the airport: all the direct buses and airport trains carry a hefty Arlanda surcharge (130 SEK, since you asked). The smarter move is a bus to the tiny village of Märsta (a couple of cafés, a grocery shop, perfectly pleasant) and from there a very reasonable train into Stockholm city centre at 42 SEK. But since Ms. Wildfire was with me and the weather was being cooperative, we made our way straight to Sigtuna.

The roads are flat, sparsely populated, and so quiet on the cycle path that I'd actually get a little thrill when another cyclist appeared on the horizon. Kindred spirits.

I am completely in love with Sigtuna. Quaint cafés, cobbled streets, and that particular Scandinavian ability to make everything feel simultaneously cosy and effortlessly stylish. The meal sealed the deal: at Strandvillan's café on the Sigtuna beach walk, I had a chicken and feta salad and a Chokladbollar with my coffee. The Chokladbollar alone is reason enough to visit Sweden. Write that down .

Strandvillan’s café, Sigtuna. Left: the salad. Right: the reason I came back to the counter twice.

                                            My STRAVA for the day .🚴‍♀️

Day Two ~ The Uppsala Incident

📍 Arlanda airport  → Uppsala🚴 ~37 kms (plus a deeply unnecessary detour)⛰️ Flat🚔 Vibe: Unplanned police escort

Day Two was always going to be about Uppsala. What it was not supposed to be about was Swedish traffic law. And yet. Here we are.

Here is what happened. I was in my zone, that particular flow state that only cycling gives you, and I made a bold navigational choice. I decided to trust my instincts over Google Maps. I found a broad, wide path and committed to it. There were no signs saying no pedestrians or cyclists. There was just a smooth surface, a slight unsettling quality to the vehicles around me, and then: honking. A great deal of honking.

Something wasn't right. I checked Google Maps. I was on an expressway.

I took a U-turn. The Swedes, who are generally extremely woke and civil, absolutely blared their horns at me. Fair enough, honestly. But then the police arrived. Ms. Wildfire and I were pulled over, escorted to a small side road, and had our credentials noted. No fine. Just a very memorable moment and a story that will be told at every dinner party for the foreseeable future.

Ms. Wildfire officially has a near-criminal record in Sweden. Pffffttt. I managed to embarrass a bicycle."

Anyhow. We dusted ourselves off and continued from Knivsta to Uppsala, which turned out to be absolutely gorgeous and therefore very good at making you forget your crimes.

Uppsala: home to one of Sweden's most famous universities, thousands of students, and my greatest ever salad.

Uppsala is a university city with the energy to match: students, tourists, and a castle on the hill. Güntherska Hovkonditori & Schweizeri is a must. Outdoor and indoor seating, a view of the river if the street isn't too crowded, and the kind of food that tastes like someone actually cared about every ingredient. The best part? Complimentary water and coffee refills. I live in Qatar where water alone costs 4-5 USD at a café. I almost wept .😜

The salmon and goat cheese salad at Uppsala Domkyrko. The most satisfying salad I have ever had. I stand by this claim completely.

After wandering around this gorgeous city for longer than planned (as one does), I took the sensible option: bus back to Märsta, then an easy, peaceful ride to Arlanda. No expressways this time.

                                                 STRAVA done for the day .🚴‍♀️✔️

Day Three ~ Stockholm Proper

📍 Arlanda → Stockholm City🚴 ~25 km⛰️ Flat and well-marked🎶 Vibe: Taylor Swift is somewhere in this city

Weekend morning. Sunlight. Cyclists and joggers everywhere. I love a city that actually uses its outdoor infrastructure. Seeing other people out on the paths on a Saturday feels like a small quiet celebration of being alive.

I passed through Solna, the Swedish Museum of Natural History, the Domkyrkodistrict, and treated myself to a humongous salad . The café owners then directed me to a lovely  café for coffee, which had the most delightful little takeaway salad boxes. Details matter, Sweden.

Left: The Green  Goddess salad . Right: the café boxes that made me irrationally happy.

And then Gamla Stan. Old Town Stockholm, golden afternoon light, cobblestones, that view from the water that genuinely never gets old no matter how many times you see it in photos. It was a warm sunny Saturday, which meant the square was absolutely packed, which meant poor Ms. Wildfire could not get a clear shot without someone wandering into frame. The hazards of being a travel companion who is also a bike.

Gamla Stan doing what Gamla Stan does. Wildfire tried her best . The  magnets were darn cute. Obviously I bought several.

It was also the weekend Taylor Swift was performing in Stockholm, which meant the trains were packed in the most wonderfully chaotic way. We found a spot on the Arlanda Central to Märsta service, and the evening closed with a proper Swedish meal at the airport . Perfect, from start to finish . 

🍽️ 

SAL'S PLATE: STOCKHOLM EDITION

• Strandvillan Café, Sigtuna: Chicken & feta salad + Chokladbollar with coffee. The chocolate ball alone justifies the trip.
• Uppsala Domkyrko: Salmon & goat cheese salad. The best salad I have ever eaten. Full stop.
• Güntherska Hovkonditori & Schweizeri, Uppsala:Premium food, river views, and free coffee refills. A gift to humanity.
• Stockholm, Day 3: The humongous salad at a café whose name I forgot in the joy of eating it. Worth finding.

Before You Go: Three Things Worth Knowing

1. Always follow the bike route on Google Maps. Do not freestyle navigate on roads you don't know. I cannot stress this enough. Ask Ms. Wildfire.
2. Eat everything. Swedish food is exceptional: fresh, quality ingredients, and portions that mean business. Treat yourself at every opportunity.
3. The terrain is your friend. Almost entirely flat, well-marked paths, and genuinely pleasant cycling all round. Great for Bromptons, beginners, and everyone in between.

And that's that for Ms. Wildfire's Swedish chapter.
Sweden, you were magnificent, patient with my expressway adventures, and absolutely delicious.

TUSEN TACK 🥰

The magic of Malaga, Spain .

SalGoesCycling

Spain · June 2025

The Magic of
Malaga

Sun, cobblestones, the wrong bus, and one very good goat cheese salad.

June 01, 2025  ·  Málaga, Spain

Cycling along Fuengirola was something else entirely. The promenade is gorgeous, lined with cafes, bars, and yes, quite a few British pubs too. I knew from my first ride that this stretch was going to be a highlight, and it delivered every single day.

What I loved most was how it managed to feel touristic without being overwhelming. Locals were out at the bars, people were kayak polo-ing in the water, life was just happening. That's the beauty of cycling, really. 

“There’s no way I would have stumbled across any of that on foot.”

🚐

A Day Trip to Ronda

The following day, I braved a trip to Ronda. Ms. Wildfire managed a spot in a van, and off we went to this impossibly picturesque town. I only had about four hours before my return bus, so I couldn't venture too far from the centre. A short ride later, it was time for some food, and Ronda is officially the place that made me fall in love with walnut goat cheese salad. I'm not sorry about it.

Back on the bike and into the cobbled streets. The souvenir shops had the most beautiful ceramic plates on display, genuinely tempting, but as always, I sufficed with a magnet. If you have more time than I did, Ronda is apparently brilliant for longer cycling trips. Just leaving the town opens up wide, open roads that looked absolutely perfect for it. I didn't get far, but even the short ride made for a happy afternoon.

✦   ✦   ✦

🚌

The Wrong Bus (A Blessing)

The journey back, however, had other plans. I boarded the wrong bus, which instead of heading straight to Fuengirola, went to Malaga's central station. Ms. Wildfire ended up in the cargo hold, which was a little nerve-wracking, and my bus driver was not exactly thrilled with the situation. I'll blame the Spanish-English miscommunication. Thankfully, a couple of kind co-passengers stepped in and assured me the connection was easy.

Standing at Malaga central station, I weighed my options. Train? Bus? Or just trust Ms. Wildfire? This is where European summers earn their reputation. Ample daylight, 31 kilometres, two hours. We cruised through Torremolinos and Benalmadena, and I treated myself to tapas and a glass of wine on arrival in Fuengirola. No regrets whatsoever.

“As it so often goes, the wrong turn led somewhere wonderful.”

📖

Books, Bowls & a Bruised Knee

The next morning called for another promenade loop and an acai berry bowl for breakfast. By this point in the trip, I had started bringing a book along to fill the quiet moments between rides. There is something genuinely lovely about pulling your bike up at a nice viewpoint and just reading for a bit. So much better than picking up your phone.

I did have a fall, I should mention. The weather had turned cloudy and drizzly, and taking a corner on wet tarmac, Ms. Wildfire lost her footing and down we went. She was absolutely fine, sound as a pound, but my knees took a knock. It was okay though. My main concern in that moment was sincerely hoping nobody had witnessed the whole thing.

What Malaga Taught Me

1. 01 Always bring a book on longer rides. Best companion going.
2. 02 Don't let language barriers intimidate you. Miscommunications happen and it's genuinely fine.
3. 03 The wrong bus was entirely my fault, but it gifted me one of my favourite rides of the whole trip.
4. 04 Slow down in the rain. Obvious, but worth the reminder.
5. 05 Pack a bandana for evening rides. Malaga in summer can still send a cold wind your way once the sun dips.

Route Recommendation

The Fuengirola promenade ride is a must, as is the stretch from Malaga centre towards Benalmadena. The cycle path is well-marked and cyclists are genuinely respected out there.

Malaga has well and truly won my heart. Don't skip it on a trip to Spain, and if you can spare a few hours for a bike ride, please do.

Adios & safe travels. — Sal, aboard Ms. Wildfire

Bike Trip Brompton Cycling Ronda Spain

Toulouse , The Canal du Midi affair .

France  /  Toulouse

Two Days,
One Canal,
and a Lot of Burrata

A Brompton's adventure through the Pink City and along the Canal du Midi

Ms. Wildfire Brompton Southern France

I arrived in Toulouse with zero preparation and, rather delightfully, a suite with a full living room to settle into. The only thing on my mind? Getting out for a ride before dinner.

01

Landing in the Pink City

The accommodation was not the most luxurious in the world, but it had two things going for it: a central location and a proper living room to spread out in. A quick unpack, a snap of the panniers onto Ms. Wildfire, and off we went.

I had done absolutely no reading on which neighbourhoods were worth exploring. I still haven't sorted myself a quad-lock phone holder either, which makes navigation a particular kind of adventure. So we did what we always do: followed the cycle path, trusted the instinct, and ended up at a bridge. Honestly, it almost always works out.

Tip for Toulouse: Save your hotel's location before you head out and just wander from there. The cycle paths are well-marked, and cyclists are genuinely respected here. You will find your way.

Later that evening, I joined my colleagues for dinner. They had spent the afternoon on their phones, taking naps, the usual.

Meanwhile, Ms. Wildfire and I had already clocked some of the best bits of the city. I will say it plainly: without Wildfire, I would absolutely be rotting in my room too. She has a remarkable way of dragging me out into the world.

 

Day 2 — Canal du Midi

The next morning, while most of the group set off for a day split between Bordeaux and Toulouse, Ms. Wildfire and I had our sights on something far more specific: the Canal du Midi.

It is a 240 km canal running through southern France, built in the 17th century and still utterly breathtaking. You can jog it, walk it, cycle it, or drift along it by boat. And as always, the further I pedaled from the city, the more beautiful it became.

The further I cycled from the city, the more gorgeous the views became. It always happens that way.

The section I rode was completely flat, which makes for a wonderfully peaceful ride. No grinding climbs, no stressful descents, just the canal, the trees, and the sound of wheels on the path. I genuinely hope to come back and do the entire stretch someday.

A note on lunch: Restaurants along the canal are not conveniently clustered, so plan your timing accordingly. I was lucky to find one open and had the most wonderful burrata salad. I am a devoted burrata person and this one did not disappoint.

There are plenty of bicycle rentals around Toulouse, so there is no excuse not to get on a bike. A ride along the Canal du Midi should be the very first thing on your Toulouse itinerary, full stop.

03

A Day Trip to Carcassonne

The weather on the third day had turned grey and, to be honest, my body had decided to make things a little inconvenient. So I put the bike away and joined the group for a day trip to Carcassonne instead.

It makes for a lovely half-day out. The old fortified city is striking, the food is excellent, and I had my first ever butter snails. They were genuinely delicious. Well, I was in France, and Toulouse is known for its gastronomy, so I probably should not have been surprised.

Until the next ride...

Toulouse is a wonderful city. Go. And whatever you do, do not skip the Canal du Midi.

Me, Ms. Wildfire & the French Riviera.

Nice, France  ·  Birthday Ride  ·  2024

This is a short one. But it is also the one closest to my heart. Because this is the first time I took Ms. Wildfire along with me, and it was for a very special occasion.

Me and Ms. Wildfire celebrated my 35th birthday exploring the vistas of Nice, France. Funny enough, back in 2017 when I visited Nice for the very first time, I remember wishing so badly that I had a bicycle so I could ride along that beautiful Riviera and just soak it all in. Seven years later, we made it happen. Life works in beautiful ways. Hold on to your dreams and they might just turn into reality in the most enchanting ways.

✦   ✦   ✦

Now, as always, our stories come with a little spice. It is those small and big challenges that make any adventure worth remembering.

Ms. Wildfire was comfortably settled in the cargo hold of the plane. I was waiting for boarding to wrap up when I froze for a couple of seconds with a silent "oh no." I had forgotten my tyre pump at home. Yes, you can always find a bike shop, but there is something deeply reassuring about having your tyres properly inflated before you even step out the door.

And then, instead of doing the sensible thing and booking an Uber straight to a bike shop upon arrival, I decided to haul my 12 kg bike 500 metres to an unmanned petrol station. I could not figure out the machine. It was absolutely not worth it.

But that is how we ended up at Bouticycle, a wonderful little bike shop right near the Promenade. They topped up my tyres for free. For free! That small gesture of kindness still makes me smile. If you are cycling in Nice, please go give them your business.

✦   ✦   ✦

And then the real adventure began. The Nice Côte d'Azur cycling route connects all the way to Cannes in one direction and Monaco in the other. My Strava tells the full story. Here is how it went.

Route 01

Nice to Cannes

I only covered about a third of this route since I headed out in the evening and I do not ride after dark. The path is flat and lovely. On your way back, please stop at Copenhagen Coffee Lab for their chicken and cranberry baguette. I took mine as a takeaway and eating it after a long day of cycling felt absolutely heavenly.

Route 02

Nice to Monaco

This was my birthday ride and I knew it had to be something special. So we aimed for Monte Carlo. The view through Villefranche-sur-Mer genuinely speaks for itself. The route out is mostly flat and downhill, which felt glorious. Of course, I had to pay for every bit of that joy on the way back.

Once you enter Monaco, you come in via a highway stretch which is not ideal for cycling but entirely doable. People are respectful towards cyclists and I had absolutely no trouble finding my way around.

Sal's Tip

Be ready for the uphill on the return leg. My little stack of mandarins and some electrolyte drink kept me going. In all honesty, I did not see any other cyclists struggling, so the climb is very manageable. 😝The views along the way are completely worth every bit of effort.

"This route is a must. Full stop."

I made it back to the hotel with time to spare and joined my colleagues for a glass of wine and a small pastry. Nobody knew it was my birthday, and I preferred it that way. An epic ride through the Riviera and a relaxed evening with good company. It was, quietly, one of the best birthdays I have had.

What I learnt from the first outstation ride

✦   Do not forget the tyre pump. Just do not.

✦   Always pack energy snacks and electrolytes for longer rides.

✦   Downhill out almost always means uphill back. Plan accordingly.

Check out more pictures on Instagram @SalGoesCycling

I hope you get to ride the Nice Promenade and enjoy the French Riviera to the fullest. 😁😊

Au revoir.