I arrived in Toulouse with zero preparation and, rather delightfully, a suite with a full living room to settle into. The only thing on my mind? Getting out for a ride before dinner.
Landing in the Pink City
The accommodation was not the most luxurious in the world, but it had two things going for it: a central location and a proper living room to spread out in. A quick unpack, a snap of the panniers onto Ms. Wildfire, and off we went.
I had done absolutely no reading on which neighbourhoods were worth exploring. I still haven't sorted myself a quad-lock phone holder either, which makes navigation a particular kind of adventure. So we did what we always do: followed the cycle path, trusted the instinct, and ended up at a bridge. Honestly, it almost always works out.
Tip for Toulouse: Save your hotel's location before you head out and just wander from there. The cycle paths are well-marked, and cyclists are genuinely respected here. You will find your way.
Later that evening, I joined my colleagues for dinner. They had spent the afternoon on their phones, taking naps, the usual.
Meanwhile, Ms. Wildfire and I had already clocked some of the best bits of the city. I will say it plainly: without Wildfire, I would absolutely be rotting in my room too. She has a remarkable way of dragging me out into the world.
Day 2 — Canal du Midi
The next morning, while most of the group set off for a day split between Bordeaux and Toulouse, Ms. Wildfire and I had our sights on something far more specific: the Canal du Midi.
It is a 240 km canal running through southern France, built in the 17th century and still utterly breathtaking. You can jog it, walk it, cycle it, or drift along it by boat. And as always, the further I pedaled from the city, the more beautiful it became.
The further I cycled from the city, the more gorgeous the views became. It always happens that way.
The section I rode was completely flat, which makes for a wonderfully peaceful ride. No grinding climbs, no stressful descents, just the canal, the trees, and the sound of wheels on the path. I genuinely hope to come back and do the entire stretch someday.
A note on lunch: Restaurants along the canal are not conveniently clustered, so plan your timing accordingly. I was lucky to find one open and had the most wonderful burrata salad. I am a devoted burrata person and this one did not disappoint.
There are plenty of bicycle rentals around Toulouse, so there is no excuse not to get on a bike. A ride along the Canal du Midi should be the very first thing on your Toulouse itinerary, full stop.
A Day Trip to Carcassonne
The weather on the third day had turned grey and, to be honest, my body had decided to make things a little inconvenient. So I put the bike away and joined the group for a day trip to Carcassonne instead.
It makes for a lovely half-day out. The old fortified city is striking, the food is excellent, and I had my first ever butter snails. They were genuinely delicious. Well, I was in France, and Toulouse is known for its gastronomy, so I probably should not have been surprised.
Toulouse is a wonderful city. Go. And whatever you do, do not skip the Canal du Midi.
